WHAT IS TREKKING ?
To trek means to start off from a given town, village or airfield and to wander through field and hills, through forests and along valleys or mountain slopes up to any altitude, usually not much higher than 18,500 ft. (5,500 to 5,650m.). Mostly this wandering will be done along paths and tracks (the latter word being cognate with the expression "trek").with out having to use specialized equipment for rock and ice climbing, nor oxygen. Another definition of trekking is a negative one: "While trekking one has never to use one's hands'', which makes it something quite different from mountain climbing or ''alpinisom'' as it is generally understood. Some more has to be added, in general trem: As the distances are fairly considerable- a real trek takes not less than 8 days and more than often 15 or 20 days-and as there are few hostels or rest -house, in certain areas few villages even, trekking parties have to hire porters to carry all the food they will need on their way, in addition to clothing, tents and sleeping equipment, as well as medicines, since supplies are sparse and difficult to come by. So far the material side of trekking. But even more important is the psychological aspect : trekking means to live intensely every minute of each long day, and to enjoy the calm beauty of the mountain valleys, ridges, passes and summits.

HEALTH PRECAUTIONS
Medical hints Trekking implies a constant physical effort and you feel the stress. Over a longer period this very beneficial but over a shorter one it can be dangerous. This stress is caused by change in environment, harshar climate, great variations of temperature within twenty-four hours, and thinner air i.e. Less oxygen.

Even the change of your way of life from the almost completely ''automated '', air-conditioned, comformtable and sterilized life to a primitive, one , close to nature, a life totally different where the most elementary things become primrodial again : all this may contribute in producing stress. For those who are not accustomed to open-air life, who are unfamiliar with mountains and perhaps physically not very it, it will be still more important to take all necessary precautions. First of all, it is imperative to under go a thorough medical check-up prior to setting off on a trek, irrespective of age ! Statistic seem even to indicate that young men between 20 and 30 are more likely to get into mountain-trouble than older people !Of course the generally admitted fact is that the younger tend to be more daring and sometimes over-confident in their own strength than older people. Here again, the himalayan Rescue Association gives the following simple and practical advice : "Plan your trek with utmost care". "The idea of snatching a quick holiday may be all right for the sea side but it does not give the respect due to the Himalayas". Always allow one or two extra days in your programme". "In no case and on no account try to beat a record". "If you start your trek by using an aeroplane to land on an altitude airstrip, do not go much higher that first day". "Once you are above 12,000 ft.(3,600 m.) spend two consecutive nights at the same altitude, for mountain sickness may appear even below 11,000 ft. (3,350 m.) It is imperative to allow another two consecutive nights when above 14,000 ft. (4,250 m.)". (450m.) or more above the campsite and go down again "."If you have allowed yourself one extra night or day of rest and acclimatization, in no case try to make up for what you (wrongly) consider as having been "lost time."

"Last but not least, be always on the alert for any symptom of altitude sickness"(for further details about them, see next paragraph.) Mountain sickness This is the most excruciating and serious danger that threatens the careless trekker. Mountain sickness claims every year far too many victims in the Himalayas, mostly among young men and women who, disregarding all warnings, want at all costs to go "Too Fast, Too High". Unfortunately there are no reliable means of detecting in advance who is more vulnerable to this mysterious disease. To treat it with contempt is, no doubt, disastrous. Here are some facts which might prove useful: One important point to keep in mind is that there is no preventive medical treatment.

Some studies indicate minor benefits to be obtained from furosemide '("Lasix") or acta- zolamide ("Diamox"), which are both diuretics. But taking these medicaments need a compensation by absorbing potassium in certain proportions which should be determined exclusively by a doctor, besides, the efficiency of this prophylaxis is currently controversial for the side effects incurred by taking these drugs indiscriminately and without constant medical supervision can be as incapacitating as mountain sickness itself. The first symptoms of the sickness are :
- reduced excretion of urine
- bad headaches and even worse migraines
- loss of appetite
- insomnia
At this a stage, good night's sleep, induced by a tranquililizer or an aspirin, help to ensure that you can set off next morning. However, these first danger signs must be taken seriously and from now or your climb will have to be slower and more gradual than up to now. The symptoms of the next stage are :
- nausea and vomiting
- more and more breathlessness
- - a feeling of heaviness in the chest
- - severe fatigue
- - apathy
- -blurred vision, loss of balance, mental confusion.
- Even the slightest touch of these symptoms must be taken very seriously indeed and necessitates the one and only remedy : To descend immediately at least 3,000 ft. If the case is not serious, twenty-four or forty-eight hours spent at this lower altitude should enable the trekker to continue his way, on condition, however, (and this is essential ) that he does not hurry in order to make up for the lost time. If the symptoms persist, he must come down for good.
- It may not be out of place to remind you that, unlike in Europe or in the U. S. there are neither mountain clubs nor huts offering accommodation for the night, nor permanent telecommunication enabling those who need urgent assistance to get it.
- A special chapter dedicated to emergency cases follows below.

Medical Kit
Since there are neither hospitals (except in the villages of Phaplu and khumjunj,) nor medical posts (except the"Trekkers Aid-post" at Pheriche see hereunder) nor chemists in the villages, it is highly recommended that each trekking party should have its own medical kit. In kathmandu, most medicines made in India can be obtained in any of the many medical stores. The composition and the size of the medical kit depends of course on the number of persons in the party, their medical knowledge and habits, as well as the planned duration of the trek. Here, very briefly, are some of the medicaments which are recommended. *

- . Pro-from are to be mentioned here some basic items such as cotton-gauze, adhesive bandages, scissors, needles and safetypins , a thermometer, tweezers, "mercurochrome" and iodine, cotton wool, sticking plaster, band-aids, forceps, etc.
- More specific items now :
- -To protects the skin against sunburns: the most effective preparation is a 5 % solution of para-aminobenzoic acid in 55 % ethyl alchol. The pharmacist will compound this mixture will be carried in a plastic dropper bottle. To be applied on half an hour before exposure. Attention: it may stain clothing. Another good product is zine oxyde cream.
- - To protect eyes: well-fitted sun-grasses or goggles. Collyrium or opthalmic liquid such as a 10 % sodium sulfacetamide of 15 ml. made by "Royal Drug" or any other ointment containing bacitracin, choliramphenical, predinisone or cortisone are to be avoided .
- -Against sore or infected throat (frequent!) : codeine (15 mg. tablets), or Listerine. Also gargling with a warm
salt-water solution.

- Against coughing : 2 tablets of codeine (30 mg.) every 6 hours for a day, when coughing does not produce sputum.
- Against commom cold : First of all , Vitamin C (tablets) as a preventive. Then aspirin containing Vitamin C and, a course, abstain from smoking.
- Against diarrhoea : (the most common plague of trekkers ! ) the simplest medicine is tincture of opium, of which ten drops in a small amount of water up to five times a day should be absorbed . Or " paregoric"
(camphoreated tincture of opium) can be used. Good substitutes would be 2-3 Lomotil tablets.
-
- Should the disease degenerate in dysentery , a treatment of antibiotics with an initial dose of 2 pills followed by 1 pill every 6 hours, preferably before eating, is indicated, while drinking plenty of water is
recommended.
-
- To sterilize water : This is such a " must " that to mention it may seem superfluous. All water that will be used for cooking or drinking has to be purified (sterlized) or boiled, or better both . The easiest way of
purifying water is to add 8 drops of iodine to 1 litre (US quart) of water and wait 15 minutes before drinking. There exist also (but not necessarily in Kathmandu) other sterilizing tablets such as "water Purification Tablets of Iodine", Halazone or Clonazone which become active one hour after they are dissolved in water. Of course , these precautions may be relaxed whenever the trekker finds himself above the vegetation line, where the danger of finding polluted water, by villages or pastureland up-hill, is non-existent. This is the case above 15,000 or 16,000 ft.(4,600-4,900 m.) `
- - Against headache: Aspirin or similar tablets.
- Against infections: Antibiotics, such as teracycline, 250 mg. tablets. penicillin G, 400,000 unit tablets
or Ampicillin, 250 mg. tablets.
- Against sleeplessness: Meprobamate or other sedatives, these can help to have a good, sound sleep,
However, sedatives should be used with caution at high altitudes for in the presence of some forms of
mountain sickness, they may be dangerous, even fatal .
- To prevent blisters on the feet (another "classic" which makes trekkers suffer all too often!) moleskin, band-aid has to be used as soon as atender or hot spot is felt or better still before! There exist some cream
and powders ("Burrow's solution " for instance) which are believed to be efficient preventive products.
- - Energy-giving tablets containing glucose, vitamin C and coramine have sometimes fatigue- killing and stimulating effects when high altitude trekking exerts special strainon heart and lungs. Some doctors consider their efficiency more on the psychological than on the physiological level.

Against muscular pain and spasms : these are innumerable creams and ointments with analgesic properties.
Against stuffed noses and sinuses : Phenylephrine HCL (1/2%)nose spray or drops. In kathmandu such as preparation is available under the name of
Fenox .
Last but not least : a few words must be added on two items : leeches and frostbites .
Leeches : when trekking during the monsoon or in early autumn, september and beginning of October, these ugly creatures can turn in a real plague. Thay are so thin that they creep easily through the lace holes of the trekker's shoes ! Since they are provided with some anaesthetic substance, their bite is not felt at all when they start sucking blood. Once they are gorged, their anticoagulant substance provokes prolonged bleeding. Trekkers should resist the urge to tear them off the skin while they are sucking, for part of the creature (their "gob "0 may remain inside and produce
infection.)
- It is wiser to use some of the efficient repellents, such as Dibutyl Phthalate with which clothes and socks should be sprayed. A simpler way consists in socking socks and stockings in a concentrated salt-water
solution. Ankles should be protected by bandages or "puttee".

Frostbites: preventive measures: plenty of warm clothing , soild and high mountain boots , where feet
are completely at ease. Several layers of gloves. All connecting points between the different parts of clothing should be well protected to prevent cold air infiltrating. Futher: acclimatization to altitude, aboundant food and in particular very aboundant drinking are also a "must". Symptoms :finger and toe-tips getting cold, skin changes its normal colouring. More serious ; loss of sensitivity, pain in hands or feet. . Some do's : Increase the quantity of liquid absorbed, keep moving fingers , hands and toes, take constantly glucose tablets (glucose should always be in easy reach) Descend when the loss of sensitivity does
not lessen. . Some don'ts : Don't "beat" fingers or toes to activate blood circulation. Don't take off gloves or shoes, unless you are under a tent or in or warm room or place. In open air, once removed, shoes could no
longer be put on! Wind is relatively more dangerous than cold alone . This is why usually, fingers are more often exposed to frostbites since they are lase protected than feet.

ORGANIZING THE TREK
Logistics and number of participants The most important problem consists in correctly evaluating the needs, in men, food and equipment, to perform the intended trek under
the best possible conditions.
- Manpower The Sherpas (For simplicity's sake, we shall use the word Sherpa, although very competent and experienced guides (Sirdars) may be recruited in other ethnic groups too, such as Tamangs, for instance.)

The sherpa sirdar is the man responsible for the logistic organization as well as the interpreter, the "band-leader" of the porters, while his assistant, usually a man from the same ethnic group, is in charge of the food, the supplies, and the cooking. It will therefore be necessary to have many Sherpas and cooks there are, or might be, separate groups within the same trek. Thus enough Sherpas and cooks have to be hired accordingly. It also must be remembered that Sherpas are not porters (except in very high altitude ) and will not carry load in addition toi their personal effect while cooks, only carry those and kitchen gear. The porters They have no other major tasks to perform than to carry the loads and, occasionally, to help picking firewood, fetch water from wells or streams etc. On larger treks, there is usually one kitchen-boy who is in charge of such duties. It should not be necessary to emphasize the crucial importance of trekking into account the physical possibilities of the porters. When planning the following Day's route, the gradient of the track, the altitude, the possible presence of snow or ice, the number of hours needed to reach the next campsite, all this has to be taken into consideration. In short, no effort should be spared to build up, right from the start, and to maintain throughout the duration of the whole trek, a harmonious and solid "team spirit." One should never forget that even the most energetic and experienced "sirdar" will never be able to force porters to carry their loads if they are too tired or if, for some other reason, they refuse to proceed beyond a given village, pass or rock-house. It is no fun to carry a "dhoko" on the back all day long,up and down the tracks, across ice-cold streams and, if need be barefooted, on snow-covered slopes. Thus, the succes of a trek rests largely on these sturdy men-and women-porters. To come back to logisitics, two yardsticks, albeit very approximate ones, may be mentioned here:

a) Each trekker may be considered using about 4 lbs. (1kg.8) of food per day (wrappings, tins etc. included of course). This yardstick is somewhat on the liberal side. Calculations should not omit the weight of
the permanent personal effects such as tents, sleeping bags, extra clothing and footwears etc.

b) Under average conditions and in medium difficult terrain,a porter can carry packs weighing 60 to 65 lbs (27 to 30 kg.) If male porters are scarce, women porters may be contracted. They are study strong and gay.

They carry up to 55 lbs (25 kg.) while knitting or singing (or both) on their way. Two porters per trekker and per week have to be considered a reasonable average. Of coures some porters may be dismissed as and when the food supplies diminish. As far the ideal number of participants is concerned, it is impossible to spell out an absolute rule. One should always keep in mind that the larger the party, the slower the progress and the greater the ricks that one or several members may not be able to follow. Experience shows that four well-acquainted friends, constitue a fairly goods trekking team. At the end of the trek , when the services of these various companions has been satisftying and also when some additional efforts have been requested (such as passing a difficult stretch of road, walking over seven hours in one day, trekking through snow and wind, carrying additional loads because one porter may have become sick or has abandoned the party etc..) it is customary to distribute some "extras "either in kind, in money or both. Psychologically, it is obviously important not to wait until such rewards are claimed! Sirdars, guides and porters earnestly hope to be allowed to keep, at the end of the trek whatever equipment,clothes shoes, socks, goggles etc. they have been given. It is, of course, imperative that all sirdars and guides, as well as the cooks and kitchen-boys have to be provided with adequate clothing and sleeping equipment, either by the trekking agency or by the members of the party. This would apply to porters as well, if their services are needed in areas where they can not find any shelter againt cold and wind . This has become compulsory by government decision taken in 1980 , but equipment may be claimed back form the porters at the end of the trek.

Clothing : Two pairs of shoes, one of them a pair of lightweight convas boots or tennis shoes with gripping rubber soles and one pair of leather waterproof mountain boots. Leggings to keep out the snow and down bootes for the night. Anextra pair of slippers can add to your comfort.

- Several pair of woolen socks of different thickness, as well as thin socks, but nylon is to be avoided. Thermo underwear, long-johns and vests; a thin vest and at least two woollen shirts.

- Two pairs of pants: a pair of shorts for the first stages of the trek, and warm pants of corduroy or wool. Two sweaters, a thin one to be kept in the rusksack if not worm, and a very warm one for night and high
altitudes (those sold at the Tibetan camp an Jawalakhel are of good quality). A wind breaker, light but strong and waterproof, a down jacket and ,if you are going high up or trekking in winter, down pants.

- Miscellaneous : Ice-axe and crampons if the terrain makes them necessary, as well as ropes. Also leggings to keep the snow out, as you often cross snow drifts even below 18,000 ft. (5.500 m.) Therometer and altimeter, plastic mapholder, pen-knife, a rucksack made of nylon which is as light as possible.

- A little shoulder bag to carry the small thing you want to keep by you : a note-book, pencil, compass, filter and lenses for your camera, extra rolls of film, some sweets.

- The rucksack will contain your picnic lunch or sandwiches. a pullover, sunglasses, gloves, a cap, a woollen shirt,a small medical kit.


CHOICE OF SEASON

There are two good trekking season :

1) Autumn : from mid-October to the end of December
During day-time, you will enjoy the sunshine, a clear sky and a magnificent view of the mountains. This is (almost ) guaranteed. January and February have also excellent weather but the night, in altitude, are of
course much colder . In the evening and during the night:-4 F. against +8 in October November. Thses temperrtures are likely to be found above 15,000 ft (4.570 m.). Of course,treks planned to remain below this altitude may be undertaken all through the winter season.

The autumn season is the most popular because of these favourable weather conditions. Also the water supply does not raise difficulties, all streams and rivulets being well provided.

The only inconvenience of trekking in the early autumn season, as long as monsoon has not completely vanished (i.e until mid-October, sometimes), is the risk of leeches up to 9,000 feet (2.740m.). in particular on tracks used by cattle, on moist and grassy land. Mostly they aim at feet and ankles.

Some of them hang on twigs and the rim of leaves. They are on the outlook for their victims and let themselves drop on shoulders or necks. The trekker should be on his guard in order to flip them away before they have fastened themselves with their suctorial organ. Once they have, it is better to let them gorge themselves with blood. They will then drop off by themselves.

Of course a radical method to get rid of leeches at any stage is to burn them with a match or the tip of a cigarette. To pour a drop of iodine on the creature is also usually fatal.

2) Spring : March -April. Usually the weather is fine, in particular in the morning hours. Below 8,200 ft (2.500m) it is pleasantly warm approx 80degree F 27degree C. However , in the afternoon . There is a tendency for cloud formations over the mountains that may lead to rain and thunderstrom.

However , there is one strong attraction for spring -trekking , namely the fact that rhododendron are there in full bloom . This is Nepal's "national flower" The rhododendron plant is no longer a bush like in Europe, but it grows to gigantic trees upto 60ft.(18m) they bloom 85000ft.(1,500m) upto 8,200ft(2,500m) or 9,000ft.,(2,750m) and are covered with white, pink or red flowers . ( The higher the altitude , the paler the colour!) .

Two inconveniences of spring-trekking : there may be scarcity of water at low altitudes, and above 11500ft (3,500m) snow may still cover grassy slopes and pastures.

A Few Suggestions For Treks
For Less Than A Week
Starting from Kathmandu.

To Langtang
This beautiful Valley , just north of Kathmandu can be reached in 20 min. (by charter flights only) up to the airstrip of Langtang (11,500ft =3.500m) a unique airstrip indeed foir , during most part of the year, it is covered with "edelweiss" f lowers! A pleasant short walk leads from the airstrip to Kyangshin where the Swiss Association for Technical Assistance set up, as far back as 1956,one of their many cheese factories.

From there . various treks can be undertaken , either northwards to reach after three to four hours the top of Yala peak (16,000ft. 4.877m.) or along the Langtang Valley itself towards Langshisa , at the foot of the Trupaiku glacier and the imposing pyramid of Dorje Lakpa. A more strenuous trek leads to and over Ganja -La pass (16,800ft. 5.120m.) from which one reaches Kathmandu , via Tharkegyang and the Indrawaty Valley . The more classical trail back consists in following Langtang Khola Valley to Syabrubensi where it meets the other river , the Bhote Kosi which comes from Tibet . It takes approx three days from Langtang village to Betrawati and Trisuli , where it is easy to find transport (buses ,trucks or jeeps ) to drive you back to Kathmandu. There is a short -cut along this trail Syabrubensi, leaving the main road and taking the track between Ghora Tabela and Syarpa. This leads to Chedang and the picturesque Gosainkunda lakes. To the Monastery of Thyangboche (12,710ft. -3.875m.) This is the spiritual centre of the whole Sherpaland and one of the most frequented places of worship and pilgrimage. To reach this place, you may fly to either of two airstrips: Lukla (9,085ft. - 2.770m.) or Syangboche (12,300ft. - 3.750m.) In the first case , you will need two more days of walk. The first you will reach easily (6 hours approx). the village of Jorsale (also called Thumbug) or , with a little additional effort: NAMCHE BAZAR itself, the capital - city of the Sherpaland. In the second case, one day is enough to reach, via the magnificently located Everest-view Hotel, the village of PHUNKI, at the bottom of the Valley (10,650 ft - 3.246 m.) and then climb up the partially steep track up to monastery. This " gonpa " is located on a promontory looking straight towards Mount Everest and its guardian-mountain Nuptse ( 25,850 ft.-7.879 m.) with, on its right side, the magnificent pyramid called Ama Dablam (22,493 ft - 6.856 m.) Two other splendid peaks are the flattened "snow-saddle" called Kangteiga (21,932 ft.-6.685 m.) and the sharp-edged Thamserku (22,336 ft. - 6.808 m.) to the south-east and the massif of Khumbu - Yul-lha (18,900 ft.-5.760 m.) to the West. All these beautifully shaped, snow -covered mountain peaks add to the whole area's atmosphere of serenity peace and harmony. In the course of this trek it is also a "must" to visit the two twin-village of Khumjung- Kunde, where Sir Edmund Hillary built a school and a hospital , the first to be constructed in the whole area. The practitioner in charge is, traditionally, a New Zealander (like Sir Edmund himself) who is assigned there for two years. While his wife teaches English. Kunde is located at 12,400-ft. (3.780 m.) The Thyangboche Monastery is not a very old one: it was built approx. 60 years ago. There are - depending on the part of the year- between 10and 20 monks living permanently near the Monastery. They welcome visitors to their ceremonies and rites. They perform, in November, the famous and very colourful masked dances of the "Mani-Rimdu" festival. Thyangboche monastery belongs to the non-reformed Nyingma-pa, or "red hat" sect.

At about 3 miles. (4.6 km.) beyond Thyangboche towards the northeast, in fact towards Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar, lies Deboche with its well-Known Lamaist convent and, after Milingbo ,you reach the village of Pangboche (12,146 ft.- 3.985 m.) where the 'gonpa" shelters the precious two "relics " the "yeti 's scalp" and its (or his ? ) mummified paw (or hand ? )
To Malenchi and Tharkegyang
Take the Chinese road as far as Panchkal (3,000 ft - 914 m.)
>From there you reach the picturesque Sherpa village of Tharkegyang (8,400 ft.- 2.560 m.) after a two-and- a -half day 's trek along the Malenchi river. One more day will enable you to reach Malenchi Village on the other slope of the Valley, situated at 8,300 ft.-2.530 m.), just opposite Tharkegyang. This is also a Sherpa village, where the visit of the gonpa is worth-while as well as of some of the thang-ka painters who are producing these typically Tibetan-style scrolls, even to- day.

Starting from kathmandu
FOR ONE OR TWO WEEKS
To gosainkund lakes
There are two tracks leading to this beautiful group of mountain lakes, where an important pilgrimage of hindu devotees takes place every year in july in honor of load shiva, who is supposed to be preasent in the
middle of one of the lakes in the shape of an emerging rock. The two itineraries are the following :

- Either by bus or truck to Trisuli and Betrawati, then, on foot past Ramche , Dhunche, Chin-Gompa - Monastery up to the ridge overlooking the lakes.
- - Or proceed directly on foot from Kathmandu via sundarijal and Malemchi in a westerly direction up to the Suryakund pass (approx. 14,700 ft. 4.480 m.) which dominates the whole" necklace" of lakes.
- The trail downwards, through the rocks and rubble, is not difficult to find. On the store of the lowest lake, there are some stone house which may offer some protection if the trekkers have no tent. this place is located at an altitude of appox. (13,700 ft.- 4.175 m.).
- To Malenchi, Tharkegyang and Langtang.
- Usually the trekking parties leaves Kathmandu by the kodari road as far as Panchkal, from where an easy track follows the Indrawaty river and slowly climbs up towards Tharkegyang. From the picturesque Sherpa-village onwards, the real mountain trekking part starts. Three days of partiallydifficult climbing the track ultimately leads to the narrow passage of the GANJALA pass (16,805ft.-5.122 m.) which is overlooking the magnificent Langtang Valley. it takes only one day to reach it, although the way down is not always comfortable. Once you have reach Langtang Valley ,there are side-treks which may be undertaken from Kyangshin, a small settlement near the airstrip, where two buildings have to be visited : the Buddhist gonpa
and the cheese- factory. The two most popular, and most spectacular walks starting from Kyahgshin are:
- -to follow the upper Valley of langtang towards langshisa glacier and the Massif of Dorje Lakpa.
- -to go slightly to the north - east climb up towards the yala peak and yala- glacier.
- The road down from the Langtang valley to Betrawati and Trisuli is almost a "high-way" which does not need to be described in detail. Busses run regularly between Trisuli and Kathmandu, taking between 6 and 7
hours.
- To Solu -Khumbu (Sherpa-land) Without the slightest doubt, the most beautiful - of all trekking areas in
Nepal . Here you find the moutains - including the highest of world, - the Serpa people and a series of authentic Tibetan Lamaist monasteries . What else is there to be desired ? Whether you fly from Kathmandu to Lukla or to Syangboche , the approach into the Sherpa- land will be the same. In this region there are three main valleys to explore ; In fact there is a fourth, leading from Thame- Village in North - western direction towards the famous Nangpa - La , but this route is still within the "restricted
area for foreigners". It is one of the traditional trade routes between Nepal and Tibet , over
which caravans of yaks use to carry medicinal herbs, barley, rice , manufactured wares to Tibet where these goods are exchanged against salt from the dried - out lakes of the Tibetan high plateuaux , and raw yak -wool .
(This trade still goes on now a days although in a more reduce way as in former times. ) But let us go back to the three "open " valleys. They offer more than enough beauty and variety to satisfy even the most insatiable trekker :

They are:
The Gokyo Valley , which leads from Kunde-Khumjung straight north towards the string of lakes and the Ngojumba glacier at foot of Cho-Oyu . The Imja Khola Valley which you can follow from NamcheBazar via Thyangboche up to one mile before reaching Dingboche , where it forks : One of the two branches , the one on the left hand side , ascends in a north - westerly direction towards Pheriche , Dusa , Lobuche and finally
to Gorak Shep lake, from where you may climb the Kala Patthar hill (18,192 ft. 4445m.) Here you have the most extraordinary panorama of the world Everest range, at a few miles as the crow flies. The other branch , a little less frequented , goes off in an easterly direction to Bibre and further to Chukkung, which is the starting point for the ascent of Island Peak (20,013ft. 6,100m.) This summit requries special training and equipment for there are several very steep rocks and ice slopes to "negociate". To Kala Patthar and Mt. Everest Base Camp : This being the most popular trek it deserves to be dealt with in a little
more detailed way.

First rule : Do not undertake this trek unless to have at least 15 full days at your disposal :
Second rule : Allow enough time for gradual acclimatization if you want to enjoy this trek , and not to leave your weaker companions behind. There are two main ways to undertaking this trek :
1)If yuou have enough time, you may want to start trekking right from Kathmandu (or , better said, from either Lamosangu or Barabise on the Chinese road and from proceed eastward) which will take you between 12 and 14 days to reach Namche Bazar . You may then either come back the same ay, still on foot , or fly back
2) If you have only about 15 days, you must plan using on of the STOL airoplanes , to take you to the Khumbu area . The recommended itinery given below deals only with the second of these
possibilities. Starting from Pokhara Up the kali Gandaki There are two roads: On the way up, once you have passed through Syangja and along the paddy- field, it is better, instead of proceeding to Suikhet, to turn right and climb up to Dhampus, Landrung and Gandrung, The latter two are typically Gurung villages. From Gandrung over the Deorali you pass (9,000 ft.- 2,743 m.) it is also a very pleasant tracks, for it by-passes the steep "staircase" leading to Ulleri. From Deorali you reach easily Ghorepani pass. Once you have crossed the latter, you are approaching the "thak" country. The Thakli villages are very pituresque with their fire-wood piled on the flat roofs of their houses, their streets often paved and lined with numerous shrines of "mani"-walls. All these villages, Sikha, Tatopani (hot spings !) Dana, Ghasa, lets and Larjung offer accommodation facilities in thak-hostels. The most spectacular stretch of this track is the Kali Gandaki gorge, one of the deepest in the world: the torrent runs at a little over 8,500 ft. (2,590. m.) whereas the Annapurna flanking in the East and the Dhaulagrir in the West are both over 26,250 ft (8,000m.) high! The wall of this gorge, perfectly vertical at some places stretches up more than 5,200 ft. (1,585 m .)! Having passed Dana (there is a check-post in this village), it is most advisable to cross the Kali Gandaki (there is a well built bridge) and follow the trail on the left (Eastern) bank until you reach a second bridge which brings you again on the right (Westen) bank that you follow now up to Ghaza . This deviation from avoids several very dangerous stretches. After Larjung, you reach Tukuche, the "capital -city" of the Thakland. Nowadays, treks may again be organized not only up to JOMSOM (which was the "limit" of the forbidden area from 1963 to 1974) but to two more extremely interesting point further north resp. north-east, namely the village of KAGBENI, 7 miles north of Jomsom and the famous Hindu sanctuary of MUKTINATH, some 13 miles north-east of JOMSOM, where an "eternal divine flame spring forth from the earth", in fact an escape of natural gas. Between TUKUCHA and JOMSOM-KAGBENI-MUKTINATH has the distinct impression of having entered progressively into a region which hasundoubtedly Tibetan features : the mountain slopes are barren, the country side is arid, a few dejected weeping willows remind of photographs taken in Lhassa, Shigatse or other Tibetan towns. This impression is strongest in the area around MUSTANG,- locally LO-MANTHANG- but the latter remains still inside the restricted zone, where as another interesting locality much further to the east : MANANG has been "opened" in APRIL 1977, on the way back from JOMSOM towards POKHARA,you can visit just outside TUKUCHA, the picturesque monastery of "Gyuper Gonpa", on the right-hand side of the road, about ten minutes ' walk from TUKUCHE. Once noteworthy peculiarity of the upper Kali Gandaki valley is the extremely strong wind which sweeps the valley : roughly from 10 a.m onwards, the winds blow from south to north and, in the afternoon, it continues till dark ! It is better to take this into account when planing this trek, unless you like to have sand blowing in face, and pebbles
machine-gunning your legs ! As indicated above, the return road, from Gorapani south wards should deviate from the one taken on the way "up". Instead of crossing again Deorali pass towards Gandrung, it is easier to follow the main track and pass through Ulleri, form the village to the river down below, there are
not less than 1,630, steps hewn in the path. It is certainly less tiring downwards then upwards and it takes less time (1 h.30 min. to go down ,and at least one hour more to go up) not to count the additional 1000 steps that lead from Ulleri Village up to the pass, when going up

To the Annapurna"Sanctuary"
This is undoubtedly one of the most rewarding treks. You start off the same way as for the Kali Gandaki : After the paddy -fields up to Dhampus, Landrung, and Gandrung. But from there ,instead of turning west towards Deorali, you follow in a northern direction from Kyumni Khola towards Chomrong (many orchids are to be found here, blooming in October - November) . Here you spend the night, as the whole next day is needed to cross the dense wet bamboo forest which takes six to seven hours of hard and sometimes unpleasant walking when the path mingles with a rivulet. The forest leads to " Hinko " marked on all maps as if it were a village , where as it is nothing but a huge overhanging rock where twenty to thirty people can find comfortable (!) shelter. (Hinko is located exactly at 10,000 ft. - 3,048 m.) Next day , after a rather steep two hour's climb, you "emerge" out of the forest and reach " Machha Puchhare Base-Camp". Now, you have attained an altitude of 11,800 ft (3,597 m.). To reach the real "entrance"of the Sanctuary, there is still one hour , or a little more , to go. But now , it is an easy walk, on grass-covered slopes; one by one the peaks become visible and when you arrive finally at the Annapurna's glacier's moraine (13,270 ft. - 4,045 m)you find yourself in an incredibly beautiful, almost completely closed amphitheatre surrounded by 12 peaks ranging between 23,000 and 26,000 feet.(7,000 m.-8,000m). Certainly a unique panorama the world over. It becomes even more impressive if you succeed, after having crossed the glacier , (which does not present the slightes difficulty nor danger for it is entirely covered with boulders, to climb up to either Raski Peak (17,388 ft.- 5,300 m.)or Tent Peak (18,700 ft.- 5,700 m) , the latter however requiring technical skill and equipment, as well as knowledge of ice and rock climbing. But even those who will stay one or two well-deserved rest days at the Sanctuary itself will never forget the atmosphere of purity and beauty radiating from these summits, ice-walls and slowly tumbling glaciers. Those who have gone there will no longer have to ask why this famous mountain (Machha Puchhare) is called "Fish -tail "! An excellent book by Gunter Hauser, with remarkable photographs, entitled " Eisgipfel und Goldpagoden" (Icepeaks and Golden Pagodas) published by Bruckmann in Munich tells about an expedition in this area.

Other treks in Central Nepal
There are many more attractive trekking possibilities in this area, some of which are described in the specialized literature which has been mentioned at the beginning of the present chapter :
Let us simply mention briefly some of them : The LAMGUNG and the NAMUN Pass that can be reached either from Pokhara via Siklis, by starting from the Palungtar-Gorkha airstrip or leaving the Kathmandu-Pokhara road at a place called Dumre. This trek would take steep.
- The "NORTH West ANNAPURNA SANCTURY " which could be called the "mirror
-image" of the better known "Annapurna Sanctury", described in the previous paragraph.
- This "north -western" one is limited in the nort-west by the Nilgiri Massif, in the north , by the "Grand Barrier" and in the south by Annapurna 1.
- It can be reached by branching off from the Gandaki main trail at the village of Choya and from their , the track- which is said to steep , difficult to find and very strenuous-proceeds in a south -eastern direction. To be on the safe, 18 to 20 days are indispensable.
- In the area at the northern tip of the Kali Gandaki also, there many "side-treks" worth undertaking , Climbing towards the North-west from Tukuche for example, there are magnificent areas on the slopes of the
Dhaulagiri Massif (up to the Dhaulagiri eastern ice-fall offers a breath-taking panorama) or towards Dhampus Pass. On the eastern side, the Tilicho and Nilgiri ranges provide many treks in the immaculate landscape
of glaciers and rocks.
Pokhara-Kathmandu
This is, of course not a mountain-trek; nevertheless it is undoubtedly a very interesting walk which allows you to get in touch with different ethnic groups, different types of villages etc. On the way, the visit of the city of Gorkha and of its magnicent historical castle, from where Prithvi Nayayan Shah the Great started off in 1744 to unify Nepal, are what tourist- litereture usually calls "a must". Furthermore, this road passes the picturesque villages of Arughat and Nuwakot, where another old fortified palace may be visited. Starting from JumlanTo Rara Lake Along easy paths and through a series of poor but picturesque village, you reach within four of five days the magnificent shores of glittering Rara Lake. From Rara Lake it should be possible to
continue due north in the direction of Mugut, the gate to the western and north-western regions of Nepal which are still untouched and where customs and religious traditions have remained unchanged through the ages, such as the Dolpo, Phoksumdo, Tcharbung areas. But all these are still closed to foreigners.

FOR MORE THAN TWO WEEKS
First of all, it is always possible and even recommended to extened any of the above mentioned treks by exploring adjacent valleys or mountain passes, a forlorn village here or a yak pasture, there i.e. a cluster of
houses which, in Sherpaland, are called "yarsa" There are also an infinite number of treks which would take more than a fortnight, for instance to walk from Namche Bazar to Darjeeling, via Taplejung and Phidim, or to proceed along the foothill of the Kanchenjunga Massif or towards Makalu Base Camp, still others are to be undertaken in the central and western part of the country. The tree pre-conditions for such a trek is:
a) to be in excellent physical condition and have some training
b) to have enough days at your disposal to avoid becoming the victim of the "time-complex " which affects now a days too many Westerners.
c) to be ready to make do with a simple diet and only elementary comfort.

AROUND THE ANNAPURANA RANGE, AND MANANG

This trek takes between 18 and 22 days. After having remained in the "restriced area" for over 15 years, the Manang region has been declared "open" for tourists and trekkers in the spring 1977, thus, enabling now to
undertake the famous "Round the Annapurna Range" trek. It can be contemplated clock- wise, or anti clock wise i.e : either starting from Jomsom and after Muktiath, crossing the Thorung Pass (17,770 ft.) and proceeding then to Manang along the marsyangdi Valley down to the Kathmandu - Pokhara road. Or from DUMRE, a point on this Kathmandu -Pokhjara road, following the Marsyangdi upstreams, reaching Manang and proceeding over the pass down to Muktnath and Jomsom. It is the latter route which is positively to be recommended, the other to be rejected, for various reasons:
a) Dumre being located at 1350 ft. the acclimatization to altitude is muchmore progressive than by starting from Jomsom (3.,700 ft .)
b) There are no proper camp-sites water or fire wood on the whole long (7 hours) ascent from Muktinath to Thorunh Pass whereas coming from Manang there are two good campsites with shelters for porters and water, at 14,1000 ft.-4,300 m. and at 14,800 ft - 4,500 m. respectively
c) There is an airstrip in Jomsom. It is always safer to head towards an airfield, when having to face nothing but days and days of walking before reaching a road, should some emergency occur. Of cource, trekkers who have 25or 26 days at their disposal would want to walk down from Jomsom to Pokhara, which takes approx.5 days. From all points of view, this trek is certainly one of the most fascinating, for it offers all types of scenery, flora, various types of ethnic groups; it also includes several magnificent Tibetan gompas (monasteries) that can be visited : Pisang, Gyaru, Braga Bo-dzo and, last but not the least, the really breath-taking sights of the mountains stretching from Manaslu to Lamjung, the whole Annapurana Range, and further, the Grand Barrier, Nilgiri, Tukuche Peak and Dhaulagiri. For those who have some more days at their disposal, it is recommended to spend two days climbing up, from Manang in a north-eastern direction, to reach the ridge looking over the famous "Great Frozen Lake"(16,400 ft.) one of the highest lakes of such considerable size in the world (4miles long,1miles wide) which is frozen almost all year round. Normally, trekkers used to proceed to the "Frozen Lake" when they intended to reach Jomsom via the "Tilicho Pass"
(Also called "Meso Kanto" on certain maps.) This pass (17,380 ft.: 5,300m.) is declared "restricted area" for foreigners. However it is still allowed to trek up to the shore of the lake. Then it is mandatory to turn back to Manang and follow the "classic trail" via the Thorung- pass (17,700 ft . :5,400 m.) and down to Muktinath and Jomsom.

WHILE ON TREK
THE PART PLAYED BY THE "SIRDAR"....

The title of "Sirdar" is given to the Chief-Sherpa (he may also be of another ethnic origan,a tamang for example).It is the "Sirdar" who has to fix , with the members of the groups on one side, the porters on the other, the exactn itinerary planned for each day. It is most important that the stage planned should not be too strenuous, neither for the members of the group or for the porters. The Sirdar must ascertain that the latter know as exactly as possible what is expected from them. Another very important task of the "Sirdar" is to act as a "guide". Perhaps this not like a professional alpine climbing guide, for he may not have the necessary technical experience but the group must be able to rely on the sirdar's knowledge of the route, or , at least of the region in gernal and thus present one's getting on a wrong. The Sirdar will use his execellent sence of orientation as well as his ability to talk to the local people, to find a short-cut, a well of fresh water, a camp-site etc.Thus, the "Sirdar" acts also as an interpreter.If the weather is too unfavourable for pitching the tents somewhere in the open, it is he who will negociate the access to a suitable farmer's house as sleeping quarters.Moreover, it is the "Sirdar" who will be sent by the trekking group leader to go shopping in the village for firewood, fresh vegetable, fruits, eggs, etc. He will always be in a better position to bargain over a chicken or a mutton-leg.In the morning he will supervise the fair distribution of the porter's loads and suggest the reduction of the number of porters as an when the provisions carried have been consumed underway to the extent that one or more porters have become redundant.( When recruiting them, this point has also to be taken into account by the Sirdar : he cannot promise all porters
to go along with the party from beginning to end ). If the party is a numerous one and the trek is planned for more than a fornight, it is always advisable to hire an assistant to the Sirdar. One of the two will have to remain near the group-leader while the other is walking at the end of the long line of porters to make sure that none of
them satys behind or gets lost. Still another duty of the Sirdar is to act as a treasurer : He is responsible to the group-leader for the amounts the latter has handed over to him to cover all minor expence and to pay advance salaries to porters.This is a practice which can hardly be avoided, for the porters,before joining the party, have to give some money to their family and a so, they have to buy their food. It may be necessary to remind here that until now, it is a accepted custom that porters have to provide their own food. The trekking party has to supply meals, as well as equipment only to the "Sirdar", his assistants (s) and other guides, cooks and kitchan-boys as well as "altitude porters", if any.Another important fact has to be added here, namely that neither the "sirdar nor his assistants are to be asked to carry anything else but their personal, belongings, at least not until the party has reached the snow-line or starts climbing in areas where ordinaryporters would not be able to follow. One of the many remarkable qualities
of the Sherpas, the quality which makes them usually the best high-altitude guide is what is commonly called their "third lung" which enables them to be prefectly at ease at 18,500 ft. (5,600 m.) and higher up, at these altitudes, they are really invaluable since they can easily add another
Knapsack on top of their own while climbing. Many of them- if not all - have enough technical experience on rocky terrain and glaciers, and know how to handle icepicks,crampons and ropes. If the trek is planned to reach such areas, the choice of at least one such competent Sirdar is of course a necessity. It also goes without saying that in high altitude, the sirdar, as well as all other guides, cooks, porters etc.. are to be provided with the same type and quality of equipment as the trekkers use for themselves. Last but not least, the Sirdar, whether a Sherpa or not, is for the trekker the best of companions under all and any circumstance. His loyalty, endurance and resourcefulness have no limits.
A TYPICAL DAY ON TREK
When on a trek, it is customary to get up at down. No real trekker would like to miss the magnificent sight of the rising sun that gives life to the snow-capped pecks by tinting them first in pale pink, then in red and finally in glowing white. Furthermore, dawm is the moment when all
birds start singing, whistling and chirping; Don't forget that Nepal is a birds' paradise where about 800 varieties have been recorded. John BUCHAN was right when he wrote. "One of the misfortunes of advancing age is that you get out of touch with the sunrise. You take it
for granted and it is over and done with before you settle yourself for the daily routine". Now since there is no "daily routine" while trekking, it is much more
exciting to be awake and awere of the sunrise ! Generally, it is the cook who, before anybody else, leaves his tent in order to prepare the "early morning tea"which he will bring to each of the trekkers while they are still in their tents. Unless precise orders to the contrary have been given
the previous evening, (or once and for all), this cup of tea is likely to be served mixed with a lot of suger and milk. The next step is to get all things together, sleeping bags, mattresses
etc. in their respective plastic or canvas bags, dismantling the tents and preparing dhokos and other loads while breakfast is being served outside. The day may follow two different patterns, either the "Sherpastyle day" or the "western"one.
In the first case, breakfast will consist of one or more cups of tea (or hot chocolate, or coffee, whichever is available) and a few biscuits. There may be a piece of cheese and or chocolate, if within reach,n but nothing which needs cooking or lengthy preparations. Then, the trekkers
start simultaneously with the porters (who will also restrict their first breakfast to a cup of tea).Later, between 10.00 and 10.30, sometimes even at 11 am. there will be a long halt at a convenient place where there is plenty of water and firewood. There, the porters will start cooking their morning meal, i.e huge amounts of rice with dal (small yellow lentils) or
tsampa (a kind of porridge made of grilled, then boiled barley flour the Sherpa staple food), mixed with vegetables, spices, etc. The trekkers will take advantage of this halt to have their real breakfast with porridge, eggs, some tinned food (e.g. pate or tinned fish) cheese, bread (or
chapatis: a kind of pancake made of wheat flour) butter, marmalade, etc. This "brunch" seldom takes less than one and a half hour's, more often nearer to two hours.
The party then goes on, makes another short halt at around 1 p.m. but not always, for a quick cold lunch"out of the knapsack", the main meal being served in the evening at the camp-site. It will consist of soup, meat, rice, spaghettis or potatoes, vegetable, tinned food, cheese,
fruit-salad, etc. Around 6 p.m. or earlier everybody retires to his tent. In the second case, the "western style" day will be slightly different : A full breakfast will be served in the morning and will include porridge, coffee ,eggs, etc.which need preparation and therefore will not allow party
to leave the camp before 7.30 or even 8 a.m. The porters will insist on having their "brunch" in the course of the morning which means they will be way behind the main party during the whole
afternoon. Since they walk at a much slower pace, they may reach the camp-site much later than the rest, which entails serious inconvenience (in particular when it's raining).The trekkers would then halt for one hour around mid-day and have their quick lunch then. If the road does not pass through too difficult terrain, trekkers usually walk four hours in the morning and three in the afternoon. In more difficult areas or at higher altitudes, 4or5 hours in one day is a
reasonable average .To count the number of "miles covered" in one day makes little sense, as it all depends on the "ups" and "downs". The only factual yardstick is to count the number of hour spent on walking. In reasonably difficult terrain one may count on climbing an average of 1,100 or 1,300 feet in one hour of trekking when the track goes smoothly uphill.
THE TREKKER AT SANCTUARIES AND "GONPAS".
In the district called "Solu-Khumbu, the Sherpa- land",as well as in the Thakhhola region (the valley of the Kali Gandaki) trekkers will very often see stone-walls covered with engraved slabs, mostly bearing repetitions of the sacred "mantra"(prayer formula): "om mani padme hum" (Oh jewel in the lotus) which covers the slab completely. Now it is important to note that one is always expected